Seam Separation Repair- Class C cab

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Ithinkican
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:26 pm

Seam Separation Repair- Class C cab

Post by Ithinkican » Wed Mar 04, 2015 7:02 pm

Thanks for the informative reads. Lots of straightforward and simple info.

Right before a 3000 mile trip I discovered the water leak in the cab 'repaired' by the dealer on purchase was in fact not repaired, just covered up and festering for 18months.

I had never done any RV work before, or had the smallest idea of how RVs were to put together but I was motivated and out of time.

The cab corners were heavily rotted. I removed all the curtains, cupboards, plywood in the bed cab area and kept digging for dryness. I never found it. First layer was the exterior type carpet the dealer had layed over the plywood bed floor. I pulled that up easily enough as was just glued. Then I pulled up plywood by sections: as it was largely rotten/sodden it came out easily enough. Underneath was foam insulation in a thick glued on layer. That was frustrating to remove as came off in mostly tiny chuncks, but if I could get a ply bar far enough underneath it comes off in larger pieces.

The water had loosened the glue at least, where it was dry you virtually have to scrape it off.

Removing the insulation left a timber frame that was largely rotted.

At this stage I was ok with removing internal frame structure, but where the frame was structural, ie where the seams were screwed onto the frames, I was reluctant to mess with it: I needed the RV to stay in one piece.

I put together a frame that went over the top of the original frame, and found solid frame that I could support with new wood and screw my new frame onto the support. The ceiling wood was dry, so I extended new support from the dry ceiling/wall pieces running down the front of the cab beside the front window, and screwed on new frame into my sistered up supports.

I used galvanized fencing screws left over from another project. I also used 1inch corner brackets again left over, and made wedges to fill in the 45 degree angle between floor frame and angled front wall supports.

Finally I filled with cut pieces of foam insulation into the frame (I used 2x2 around the edge, sitting on top of now-dried original bedfloor frame, then screwed in the internal 2x2 support frames). I kept everything as light as possible: it was a temp fix to get us through the trip. I did not use glue except for my sistering pieces, then I used wet timber glue from Home Depot...

I didn't glue or attach the insulation: I cut a little tight so it would sit snugly inside the frame.

Then thin plywood over the top, screwed to frame with tiny short screws. (First ones were too thin, but I had some thicker ones of same length that worked great. ).

I made a plywood cover also for the frame under the window. My long term plan is to have this on it's own frame and hinged, so I can pull it open anytime and check for water.

Now I'm home, and looking to pea rent up my repairs.

My first plan is to replace ALL the rotted timber frame that the seams are attached to.

But how is that done?

I don't want to unscrew the seam and have the walls spring up on me...

Will I need to hold them in place? Essentially I don't know what's under the seams. Also the separation on the sides is evident now (I pulled off the dealers 'fix' and see great gaps between side wall and edge trim) : is it possible to pull them back together?

techman
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 11:49 am

Re: Seam Separation Repair- Class C cab

Post by techman » Wed Mar 18, 2015 1:50 pm

Can you provide photos of what you are talking about?

I hate to give advice blindly.

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