Arizona Wind & Sun Solar Charger
Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:18 am
From video: [yt]<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/PKvPQ8Ci7i ... jM6f4J-nsg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><\[/yt]
[code}[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKvPQ8Ci ... jM6f4J-nsg[/ty][/code]
(I couldn't get the video to show up using bb code, I had the code /code commands at one time also??)
Your amp meter is really a volt meter that is measuring the voltage drop across a shunt (resister). The greater the current, the greaer the voltage drop, the greater the measurement. I notice that your concerned about the meter as it nears full reading. A better way to consider setting this up is so the a momentary contact switch is used to attached one of the leads to one end of the shunt. This way the meter is never reading unless your pushing the button. That way, if you happen to be charging at 40 amps, if you see the needle slam. you can just let off the button. No ongoing loads to burn out your meter.
Obviously, the very best solution is a meter and shunt of higher value, something capable of 100 amps (in excess of any expectation) would be the best solution. Short of that, you should be able to do a little study and get a shunt that will read out 1/2 on the meter and you'll just double the number to get your reading.
Noticing your volt meter, you can also set that up on a momentary switch so your not burning up capacity holding it lit 24/7. I notice those are available complete with shunt as current meters on Ebay. Then you can have two matching outputs to build into a professionally looking project box.
Additionally, your charge controller is for the purpose properly controlling your charging. You don't ever have to worry about that now. Just let it go. The blinking phase at the end is probably a desulfation phase. Toss that Harbor Freight piece of junk out the truck window, I recommend a speed at least 60 mph and use a bridge abutment as a target. It should recycle it into it's component parts effectively. (just kidding readers, don't litter).
Dave
[code}[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKvPQ8Ci ... jM6f4J-nsg[/ty][/code]
(I couldn't get the video to show up using bb code, I had the code /code commands at one time also??)
Your amp meter is really a volt meter that is measuring the voltage drop across a shunt (resister). The greater the current, the greaer the voltage drop, the greater the measurement. I notice that your concerned about the meter as it nears full reading. A better way to consider setting this up is so the a momentary contact switch is used to attached one of the leads to one end of the shunt. This way the meter is never reading unless your pushing the button. That way, if you happen to be charging at 40 amps, if you see the needle slam. you can just let off the button. No ongoing loads to burn out your meter.
Obviously, the very best solution is a meter and shunt of higher value, something capable of 100 amps (in excess of any expectation) would be the best solution. Short of that, you should be able to do a little study and get a shunt that will read out 1/2 on the meter and you'll just double the number to get your reading.
Noticing your volt meter, you can also set that up on a momentary switch so your not burning up capacity holding it lit 24/7. I notice those are available complete with shunt as current meters on Ebay. Then you can have two matching outputs to build into a professionally looking project box.
Additionally, your charge controller is for the purpose properly controlling your charging. You don't ever have to worry about that now. Just let it go. The blinking phase at the end is probably a desulfation phase. Toss that Harbor Freight piece of junk out the truck window, I recommend a speed at least 60 mph and use a bridge abutment as a target. It should recycle it into it's component parts effectively. (just kidding readers, don't litter).
Dave