Archive for July, 2011
I have been working with my Bedini motors and water to attempt to provide useful fuel for home heating and to power a car or small engine.
In theory, if the Bedini motor or any other radiant energy generator can be used to charge capacitors, then they should be able to “charge” a water capacitor. My experiments are pproving that theory correct. I have been connecting the Bedini SSG motor outputs to various sized water capacitors in order to split water into hydrogen and oxygen with very little energy input.
So far though, there is not enough gas output to be useful for anything, but the experiments are still in the early stages. I have found that when using stainless steel wall cover plates, more is not better. In brute force hydroxy production, 7 plates are the best with a vehicles’ 12 volt power supply. But with the Bidini SSG, it seems like a single cell with only 2 plates produce the best output. When I add more plates, only the outside two plates produce any noticable gas output. The other plates are just extra weight.
Another interesting discovery is that more water cells do not add up to more gas output. With the SSG, you can charge multiple batteries at once, all in parallel off a single output. With my SSG, the gas output is divided among the water capacitors. When I try various sized water capacitors in parallel, the SSG tunes itself to a single one and mostly ignores the rest of them.
So, it seems like the best option is to upgrade the Bedini SSG for more power output in order to get more gas output.
Future experiments will include tubes and larger plates in the water splitters.
With the cost of gas prices soaring, I have been stressing about not using a hydrogen booster in my car so far this summer. I pulled it out to rework the design.
I have been working like crazy in the shop on a new design for my H2O booster. I am using all metal construction this time. The outside container is a large diameter metal pipe with a smaller pipe inside it. With metal, the water should not get hot anymore while running. The whole assembly will be placed in front of the car radiator in order to keep it cool.
I also had trouble with my old version arcing a bit in the contacts. It is very hard to get a good contact with SS plates without welding. I was using crimp on terminals and stainless steel bolts. But the terminals would start to deteriorate a bit and then start arcing. This would heat up the lead screws on top of the container and start to melt the plastic. Eventually the plastic would fill the space between the terminal contacts and the whole thing was dead. No power was able to get through.
My new design uses the outside pipe itself as the negative terminal, reducing the need for that terminal to be drilled through the lid as previously. The hardest part is getting a solid and secure connection to the inside pipe that will withstand stress, water, vibration and chemicals with time. I am going to try soldering strapping material inside the pipe in two places on the bottom of the pipe and then drill through that and thread and screw it down securely. Then I will coat the whole connection with liquid rubber. This is the stuff used to coat pliers and tool handles. This should give me a secure and permanent connection.
The inside pipe will be separated from the outside pipe with nylon screws threaded into the inside pipe. The head of the screw will act as a spacer between the two pipes.
I will be taking photos as I go and share it all if it succeeds.