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Archive for the ‘Hydrogen Car Project’ Category

PostHeaderIcon Reworking The DIY Hydrogen Booster To Save Gas With Rising Prices At The Pumps

Well, I ran my car for two years with a homemade hydrogen booster and saw good results. Then it got burnt out with use. Last year I did not drive as much, so the project went on the side burner. Now, with rising gas prices, and me driving a lot more, it is time to build a better H2O booster to increase my vehicle gas mileage.

The previous version was good, and it worked very well. The only problem is that I could not find stainless steel crimp on eye connectors for inside the H2O booster, so there was constant corrosion on the electrical contacts inside the booster. Every couple months I had to take it all apart and rebuild it again with clean connectors. Also, the arcing between the contacts caused excess heat, which melted the plastic booster lid with time. It still works, but I want a new design.

Older Hydrogen Booster After 2 Years Use

Old H2O Booster After Two Years Use

Above you can see the old H2O booster after two years of use. The cheap connectors were arcing inside and caused some problems with the plastic warping a bit. Again, it still worked, but needed constant maintenance. I do believe that the plastic container itself is not a problem if I could get stainless steel connectors.

But now I am planning to use a steel pipe inside another steel pipe. The outside pipe will be capped off with threaded end caps. The inside pipe will have nylon screws threaded into it, spaced evenly around the outsides. The screws will act as spacers when the pipe is inserted into the larger diameter pipe.

I have drawn up an idea here using a graphic editor and some photos.

New All Metal Hydrogen Booster Plans

There will be six nylon screws around the edge of the smaller pipe. Three near the top and three near the bottom, evenly spaced around the pipe. These will be threaded straight through the pipe. The heads will be shaved until the pipe fits snugly into the outside pipe.

The metal rod sticking up from the top of the smaller pipe is a threaded rod that will act as a positive terminal for the device. The inside pipe will be positive. The whole outside of the H2O booster will be connected to the car chassis ground. It will be placed in front of the radiator to cool it and keep the inside water temperatures down. This will help prevent what is called thermal runaway. As the water heats up, it conducts more electricity, which heats up the water more, and so on.

The bottom end cap will be steel and the top will be plastic. The plastic top will allow the positive terminal screw to pass through with no electrical contact to the negative terminal. The screw will be threaded securely into the inside pipe somehow. Or I will get it welded on the inside of the pipe for an even better fit. Then I will dip the weld into some liquid rubber. The stuff you dip tool handles into. After it cures, it should be chemical and heat resistant. This should make a solid, long lasting contact.

The top will also have a hose connector for the gas output.

Fill the whole thing with some water and caustic soda and it should work well. When I get my tools out of storage, I will finish the project. Hopefully very soon. The gas prices are starting to hurt.

View the original Hydrogen Booster Project Here

Questions? Comments? Please visit our Forum and we will be glad to help.

PostHeaderIcon Still working on a newer and better Hydrogen Booster for my old Honda

With the cost of gas prices soaring, I have been stressing about not using a hydrogen booster in my car so far this summer. I pulled it out to rework the design.


I have been working like crazy in the shop on a new design for my H2O booster. I am using all metal construction this time. The outside container is a large diameter metal pipe with a smaller pipe inside it. With metal, the water should not get hot anymore while running. The whole assembly will be placed in front of the car radiator in order to keep it cool.


I also had trouble with my old version arcing a bit in the contacts. It is very hard to get a good contact with SS plates without welding. I was using crimp on terminals and stainless steel bolts. But the terminals would start to deteriorate a bit and then start arcing. This would heat up the lead screws on top of the container and start to melt the plastic. Eventually the plastic would fill the space between the terminal contacts and the whole thing was dead. No power was able to get through.


My new design uses the outside pipe itself as the negative terminal, reducing the need for that terminal to be drilled through the lid as previously. The hardest part is getting a solid and secure connection to the inside pipe that will withstand stress, water, vibration and chemicals with time. I am going to try soldering strapping material inside the pipe in two places on the bottom of the pipe and then drill through that and thread and screw it down securely. Then I will coat the whole connection with liquid rubber. This is the stuff used to coat pliers and tool handles. This should give me a secure and permanent connection.


The inside pipe will be separated from the outside pipe with nylon screws threaded into the inside pipe. The head of the screw will act as a spacer between the two pipes.


I will be taking photos as I go and share it all if it succeeds.





PostHeaderIcon Getting started again with the H2O booster in my car

Well, its been a long, cold winter and my Hydrogen Booster project had to be put on the side. I had a bad fuel pump just before the onset of winter, which caused the poor old car to sit for a while until I could get to it. By then, winter had set on and the H2O Booster was frozen.

The bad thing about natural fuels is their poor performance in winter. Unless you have other devices in place to help, winter slows things down. The water in the hydroxy booster freezes. The bio diesel my friend uses gels up and can’t be used easily.

It is tough to use water for gas in winter because putting any additives into the mix messes things up. You do not want any corrosive gases entering your engine. And certain additives will change the chemistry of things and mess up the performance and efficiency of the booster.

Anyway, if anyone out there has any ideas or experience with using hydrogen boosters in the winter, please do share them here.

Now, due to the war overseas and rising gas prices, it is even more important than ever to save at the pumps and extend our gas mileage. We are working on newer and better ideas for hydrogen gas systems for our vehicles. As things develop, we will share the results here.

PostHeaderIcon Ran without Hydrogen Booster to compare results

I have been running my car for the past few weeks without the H2O booster just to see what type of results I may see. I left all the modifications in place, but simply turned off the Hydroxy Booster.

The first day it seemed like there was no change at all. The second day the car seemed to become sluggish. It was not actually decreasing in performance, but simply reverting to how it was running before I had been using the booster. It really felt rough. That, in itself, shows me the difference that the H2O booster makes in my car.

The gas mileage actually dropped down about 5-10 % as well. This is probably due to my advanced timing and the O2 sensor extender that I left in place.

Anyway, I will start using the Hydrogen Booster again and continue on with experiments.

PostHeaderIcon Update on materials used in making the hydrogen booster

After a couple weeks of running the diy hydrogen booster in my car, I have noticed some very important things and found a few problems.

At first, the lid kept coming loose. It is very hard to work the lid down tight on a brand new pvc pipe and threaded cap. It may seem tight, but it is not screwed all the way down. After driving the car a bit, the vibration will work the threads loose some. The cap kept coming loose on me. Oddly, this caused the hydrogen booster to suck out all the water from my backfire suppressor. All the water drained into the main h2o booster tank.

So, I kept tightening the lid after every use and refilling the hydrogen booster tank with the correct level of water. Finally, after a few days, the lid was on tight and all was well.

Then, I noticed that at the end of each day the gas production was minimal. I would open it up, clean everything and add new water and potassium hydroxide and drive on. After a few hours of use the gas production was down again. And the positive terminal on my cap was starting to get melted.

After many hours and days of tearing it apart and putting it back on again, I found the problem. Using stainless steel spatula handles is not a good idea. It is very hard to get a good contact between the spatula handles and the stainless steel plates. There was a tiny little point on the positive side that was arcing. This was causing heat to rise up the spatula handle and into the screw terminal, which was melting my hydrogen booster lid. Eventually the arcing would burn out the contact point and limit current flow and gas production. Each time I opened the booster and cleaned it, the tiny contact point would be moved to a new position, allowing better gas production for a bit until it burnt out in that spot.

I bought some heavy gauge stainless steel wire and some stainless steel crimp on electrical connectors. The wire is about ten gauge. I used the stainless steel wire and crimp on connectors inside my diy hydroxy booster between the stainless steel plates and the stainless steel screws on the lid of the booster. Now, the hydroxy booster is running well with no problems.